1. Mechanical Control – This is where you should always start. Mechanical control is when you eliminate the mosquito’s source of breeding. If there are no places for mosquito larvae to hatch and become adults, you’ve just eliminated most of the problem. Old tires, flower pots, swimming pools, bird baths, clogged gutters and impressions in the ground are all ideal mosquito breeding havens. Remove water after rains from anything the can and will hold moisture. Repairing screen doors, door sweeps, etc also will eliminate entry points into the house.

2. Mosquito Repellent – There are numerous mosquito repellents on the market. DEET is usually the main ingredient, but anything over 20% is a waste. So read the label carefully before buying. Lotions like Skin so Soft, and various brands of Citronella products like Tiki torches and bucket candles are also very popular.

3. Mosquito dunks – Mosquito dunks are a larvicide which kills the mosquito larvae by preventing them from growing into adults, and or contaminating the larvae’s food source (bacteria, algae etc). Some mosquito dunks can be quite costly. Only use dunks in standing stagnant water that doesn’t go away. Please read the LABEL before applying, because it’s not intended for large bodies of water.

4. Mosquito Trap / Magnet – The mosquito magnet (also known as a mosquito trap) is the Cadillac of all mosquito control systems. Mosquito magnets are propane operated and require the use of Octenol or Lurex (depending on what types of mosquitoes are in the area you live). The combination of CO2 and Octenol mimic a human breath, which in turn attracts mosquitoes to the location of the trap. If you spend a lot of time outdoors, you should seriously consider one of these. The Skeetervac mosquito trap is also very effective.

5. Mosquito Net / Netting – Mosquito nets are very popular for outdoor events such as camping. Netting comes in all forms from gazebos, head netting and various styles for sleeping outdoors. Netting is great, but again, treating the source is always the best.

6. Mosquito zapper – This is the easy way out, but not the best form of mosquito control. Although it’s cool to hear mosquitoes get electrocuted while throwing down a cold one, mosquitoes are not as prone to lights like moths and other insects.

7. Mosquito Fogger – Mosquito fogging is not a long term solution, but will give you quick relief. Mosquitoes are territorial, so fogging will kill adult mosquito populations very fast, but is not a long term solution. Wind is also a factor, so if the wind speeds are above 3mph, fogging will not be as effective, if at all.

8. Mosquito Spray – Another control method is using a residual pesticide to treat areas where mosquitoes might rest during the day. After a mosquito lands on a treated area they will die. Under eaves, trees, bushes or any dark shaded area where it’s nice and cool is the ideal location to treat. Some sprays are not intended for plants because the chemical could be phototoxic to plants. Remember to always READ THE LABEL before using insecticides.

9. Lighting – Mosquitoes are attracted to carbon dioxide that is generated from the breathing of an animal or human. So don’t waste your money on those fancy yellow lights if you’re trying to limit mosquito activity.

10. Diet / Natural Predators – Yes, there are certain types of foods and pills that can act as a natural mosquito repellent. Garlic pills for people and brewers yeast for pets are becoming more and more popular for people who are going Green. There are numerous stores online and locally that sell these products.

One last thing, if you live in an area where you have an abundance of mosquito natural predators such as dragon flies, frogs and bats; leave them alone. Let nature do its thing. Be thankful you have some help from the wildlife with your pest control issues.

To learn more about proven and effective methods of controlling and killing mosquitoes and for free information, please visit: http://www.mosquito-control-guide.net

Fleas can make your dog or cat’s life miserable, and yours too. Let’s just say it: fleas are cat’s and dog’s number one enemy. Just one female flea can produce up to 200 eggs per day, and eggs may lay dormant for up to one year. Meaning, if you don’t treat the core problem, and just your pet, the chances are that any flea control treatments you apply to your pet will delay the inevitable: an ongoing flea infestation in and outside of your home.

There are even many methods that don’t require flea control products to get rid of fleas. Below is a list of the top 10 flea control methods and treatments that will help you to get rid of that annoying flea infestation.

1. Flea Treatment – Giving your dog or cat immediate relief is a must. There are many flea control treatments on the market. Hands down, the best is Advantage Flea and Frontline Flea treatments for dogs and cats. So if you’re going to buy such a treatment, spend the few extra dollars to get the best. Eggs can lay dormant up to a year, so one treatment will not do. Just like any treatment, Frontline and Advantage flea treatments are not as effective if only applied once. Ongoing applications will be needed to kill additional fleas that might be brought back in.

2. Flea Spray Indoors – Spraying inside is a key component for your flea control program. Flea sprays like flea bombs and aerosols are the best. For best results choose a flea spray that has an IGR (insect growth regulator). IGR disrupts a baby flea’s life cycle preventing it from growing up to the biting adult flea we all know and love.

3. Pet Bedding – If your pet sleeps outside, then using Cedar chips for their bedding works great. Cedar is a natural flea repellent. There’s no point for long term flea control if you don’t address where your pet sleeps. Many stores also sell Cedar dust, but unless you want your dog to drag Cedar dust throughout the yard and house, stick with the chips.

4. Vacuuming – This is the most important step that you need to take to get rid of fleas in your home after treatment. Most the time just the vibration of the vacuum when getting sucked up will kill them. Be sure to get rid of or empty the bag when finished and it throw away. Vacuum carpets, couches, and chairs with cushions thoroughly. It’s just not the adults you want gone, it’s the eggs too.

5. Flea Spray Outdoors – If your dog has fleas, and spends a lot of time outside, then chances are you need to treat outdoors as well. There are numerous flea sprays on the market, so READ THE LABEL for proper application rates. Remember to see if the label says it contains an IGR.

6. Flea Trap / Monitor – Homemade flea traps, like a bowl of soapy water with a light over it, are very common and are a great way to kill, and to see if you still have flea activity. Laying a piece of white paper on the ground and moving it a little bit will also attract fleas if they are still present.

7. Infested Dogs and Cats – Having other people bring their infested dog or cat to your home is another way to have flea problems again. Were not saying that your parent’s dog can’t come over and play with Fluffy, but it doesn’t hurt to check.  

8. Fleas Natural – Brewer’s yeast pills are an example of natural flea control. Most health food stores will carry them. Remember that this is not a cure all, but another tool in a flea control program.

9. Flea Shampoo – Flea shampoo is just a temporary solution to a bigger problem. Like treatments, shampoos will kill the adult fleas only. When the fleas lay eggs, they drop to the floor or ground, which is where they hatch. So shampoo does nothing to kill flea eggs.

10. Flea Collars – Flea collars are not as effective as flea treatments such as Frontline and Advantage. If you work on a tight budget, then a flea collar is better than nothing.

For more information on the best flea control and prevention methods for pets and at home, please visit http://www.Flea-control-treatment-dogs-cat.com.